Huế(350,000 inhabitants, central Vietnam) —the capital of the Nguyễn dynasty(1802-1945), the last imperial dynasty of the country. UNESCO since 1993.‘Cessar City’. Climate: hot and humid, in November-January monsoon (pains x3 vs Hanoi).
History in Brief
1802 — Nguyễn Ánh (as Emperor Gia Long) united Vietnam after 250 years of civil wars, he established a new capital. He modeled Citadel on the Forbidden City of Beijing (but smaller). The 13 Nguyễn dynasty emperors ruled from here until 1945, when Bảo Đại abdicated under pressure from Việt Minh.
WBattle of Huế(January-February 1968, the offensive of Tết of the Vietnam War) 80% of the city destroyed. The reconstruction continues until today.
Kinh thành Huế — Imperial Citadel
10 km2 complexsurrounded by ten-foot walls and moats. Three concentric rings:
- Kinh thành(Outer Citadel) — 10 km of perimeter
- Hoàng thành(Cesar Palace) — Administration
- ♪ I'm a thành ♪(Purpur City Forbidden) — Private Chambers of Emperors
Ngo Mon Gate
South gate, symbolic (is shown on 50,000 dong banknote). Five entrances: middle only for the emperor. At the gate of the pavilion for the ceremony.
Thái Hòa Palace
"The Hall of Supreme Harmony" — the throne of the Emperor. 80 columns of laka + gold, with Chinese character. The last original hall of the complex.
Purple Forbidden City
The Emperor and his family's private apartments.90% DEFINED in 1968.— the remaining foundations. Reconstruction:Duyệt Thị Đường(Dwórski theatre, only in Vietnam),Cần Chánh(place of daily audiences, ongoing renovation).
Ticket
Citadel 200,000 VND. Combo Citadel + 3 tombs = 420,000 VND (profitable).
The Tombs of the Emperors (Lăng)
The seven Nguyễn emperors have separate monumental tombs in the area of Huế. The three most important:
Tomb Minh Mạng (Lăng Minh Mạng)
Emperor Minh Mạng (1820-1841), 2nd Nguyễn. The tomb completed 1843, considered the most harmonious — perfect symmetry, the influence of the Chinese Empire. Gardens, Sùng Ân pavilion, a bridge on Lake Trừng Minh. Introduction 150,000 VND.
The Tomb of Tự Đức (Lăng Tự Đức)
Emperor Tự Đức (1848-1883), longest reigning.Built in his lifetimeas a summer palace + tomb. A poet, fond of nature — gardens, a lake with pavilion, a small pagoda. The largest tomb in terms of surface. Introduction 150,000 VND.
The Tomb of Khải Định (Lăng Khải Định)
Emperor Khải Định (1916-1925).The Most Extraordinary Aesthetics— Vietnamese + French + Gothic blend. Inside the chapel with mosaics of porcelain and glass. Built 1920-1931, the cost has ruined the already falling vault. Introduction 150,000 VND.
Perfume River (Sông Hương)
Main river Huế. Name:‘Perfumous’In the autumn, flowers of tropical plants from the mountains fall into the water and float the aroma. Traditional cruises‘dragon boats’(Dragon Boats) — 200,000 VND/2 hours, with court music.
Pagoda Thiên Mụ
"The Pagoda of the Heavenly Lady" — symbol of Huế. 7-story 21-metre octagonal pagoda, built 1601. The Historical Place of Buddhist Resistance — From This TempleThích Quảng Đức, a monk who carried out self-incineration in Saigon in 1963 in protest against Dictatur Diệma. HisAustin, 1953.stands here today as a relic. Free admission.
Đông Ba Market
The main market of Huế. Craft:nón lá(conical hats), lacquered boxes, silk shawls. Street food upstairs. 6-19 hours. Negotiation mandatory.
Kitchen Huế — Court tradition
Huế was the imperial capital —Vietnam's most sophisticated kitchen developed here. Imperial protocol required every dish to betiny(the emperor ate 50-70 dishes in one dinner),aesthetically arranged, withstrong flavors(small portion compensation).
1. Bún bò Huò
A sharper cousin of phở. Thicker rice pasta, beef + pork + shrimp paste, lemon, spicy. 40,000-70,000 VND.
2. ♪ I'm sorry ♪
Rice with freshwater clams, herbs, peanuts, crispy rice cracks. Delicate taste, very peculiar. 30,000 VND. Street classic.
3. Bánh khoái
"Chrushy pancake" — smaller than Saigon bánh xèo, more crispy, with shrimps. You wrap it in leaves with herbs. 50,000-80,000 VND.
4. Bánh bèo
Miniature rice cakes steamed with shrimp paste and fried onions. Served in small porcelain bowls (court aesthetics). 30,000-60,000 VND for 10 pieces.
5. Chè Hu
Colorful sweet soups Huế — with mung beans paste, lotus nuts, tapioca, coconut. Company sign: cooks make them in POLIETYLENA TOREBKACH will cool off steam. 15,000-30 000 VND.
Day trips
- DMZ Tour(Demilitarized Zone) — 3 hours north, North-South border during the Vietnam War. Vinh Power Tunnels, Ben Hai River, Rock Pile. Emotional. Tour 500,000 VND
- Hai Van Pass— The legendary road pass between Huế and Đà Nẵng.Top Gearcalled it “one of the most beautiful in the world”. Motorcycle: 400,000 VND
- Bach Ma National Park— 45 km, French hill station from the 1930s, wild birds
Practical information
- Directions: HAN/SGN aircraft → Huế (Phú Bài, 15 km from downtown), 60-90 min. Train from Hanoi 12-15 hours (Reunification Express, famous route 1726 km — legendary for travellers by trains)
- Bikes from hotels: excellent, Citadel huge — walk 4 hours, bike 2 hours.
- Season: March-August (dry, hot). September-February: monsoon and floods
- Cyclo: 3-wheel bike rickshaws, classic Huế attraction. Hour 100,000 VND